I've also found that there is generally only a very small benefit to complex advance curves on basic engines as opposed to an almost immediate ramp up to full advance at relatively low (read starting) rpm. As rpm increases, the triggering threshold advances along with it, some sort of 'effect' evidently. The pro version will also display battery voltage. The tach is a great feature that is also useful for setting idle speed. The digital display on our light will indicate amount of timing and engine rpm. On a side note, I've found in my travails of adapting somewhat more modern ignition systems (ike GM HEI) to older m'cycles that some types of very simple magnetic based pickup coils seem to provide an inherent advance curve as a byproduct more or less of their physics. It connects just like any other light and uses buttons to advance or retard timing. Saws don't usually have a lot of extra real estate to do that, some do though. Problem with not having to adapt a coil and/or pickup to every different saw and using the stock self contained/triggered coils is that the SCR or whatever that triggers the field collapse event is potted in and you'd need access to that stuff to alter/interupt/replace it, typically not fun to dissect without mucking things up.īest shot at real time adjusability short of replacing the coil with an externally triggered one would be a mechanical advance, like on those old outboards, physically moving the coil. That would be Eric's domain, but he's got more than enough on his plate with dyno stuff for the time being. Integrating it into a dyno chart would certainly further streamline the optimization part. Follow the instructions particular to the timing light youre using to hook it up properly. Or physically move the pickup, lots of options. Hook your timing gun up to the power and ground terminals on your cars battery, and hook the sensor that accompanies the timing gun to your number one cylinder spark plug wire. Then use any of a number of adjustable/programmable control modules available/intended for car/m'cycle use to adjust the timing on the fly. Whether youre aiming for maximum horsepower, gas mileage, a smoother idle, or just the factory settings, a timing light can help you get there. Coil could be powered off the flywheel but chances are it won't easily adapt so you'd need a battery to power an external coil. It would be feasible to use most any old externally triggered coil and rig a pickup of some sort (optical, magnetic, hall) off the flywheel. ![]() Advance dial enables user to check base timing, mechanical advance or retard, and electronic advance or. Adjust your ignition to put it where you want it. Direct reading advance scale adjusts from 0 to 60. Now you know where your timing is set at. Start with the dial at 0, slowly turn the dial back till you see the mark in the plastic plug and read the degrees on the back of the timing light. I'm at best just a seat 'o the pants hack with the electronicals, learn as I go just enough to get the job done (or not). Then hook the timing light up and start the bike, hold it at 2500rpm.
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